Fits in place exactly like the stock fuel gauge, see shop manual. Remove tank, fairing, gauge cluster etc.
You hitch up the wires exactly the same as the stock fuel gauge on the back.
Remove the idiot sender and wire, tape wire end to keep from errant blinking.
You remove the white w/yellow tracer wire from the fuel sender, attach the included wire end and boot, install the included sensor in place of the stock idiot sensor…do NOT used teflon tape!! The sender must ground. Use a pipe sealant or Permatex #1 or #2 sealant or silicone made for water sealing… and connect the white/yellow wire to it. Installation is complete.
The dead center of the gauge, which also is marked with a black line, is calibrated by me on each individual gauge to be 212 degrees F (100 degrees C), the temp that the fan will fire up at.
See the pics below for 212 and ice water 32 degree positions.
The sender is brand new Kawasaki. The gauge core is used, tested, Kawasaki…Kaw has discontinued the only gauge that is adaptable to this application, so they are only available used. The gauge face plastic is laser cut for me and I make the gauge face to apply to it. I cannot make the face white…well, I probably could but… As I said, the gauge is used and market price and availability may vary.
The gauge assembly, temp sender, wire connector and phone tech support: $135.00 plus $7.50 shipping.
Optional: two sender thermostat housing, $55 each exchange. (Refundable $50.00 core charge) Second bung for mounting second sender welded on. With this, you can keep the idiot light and the gauge.
This is really a neat setup as you can view the water temp out of the corner of your eye easily. No biggie Ewe say?? I had a Yoshimura digital gauge on ‘er and when I would do track days I had to force myself to take my eyes off the track, and then convert number to “Hot? Cold? OK?” thought. Most times I never looked at it until I was on the pit road. A analog gauge is what Ewe need in a hy-po situation…ask any racecar driver.
It really is a straight forward install and the shop manual covers it all. It should not take you more than an hour and a half or so if you are reasonably good with a wrench.