My easy to install KWICK Turn Throttle tube. It is machined from billet aluminum with Delrin nylon bushings for a precise, ‘no slop’ fit. No lubrication between tube and handlebar is needed, so grit build-up is almost nonexistent. The OEM ZRX throttle cables and switch housing are retained, so there’s no hunting around Japan to find a replacement part from a company that’s no longer in biz later on down the road.
The tube is knurled for grip retention. The end cap is easily removable for use with stock barends or mirrors.
The endcap is retained by an o-ring.
The tube is full street length and all street grips fit with no modifications. The machine work is impeccable on this Made in USA part. It is a frikkin’ beautiful piece of art!
The stock throttle turns from closed to WFO in 82 degrees…less than the legendary “quarter turn”, but still not quick enough. The KWICK Throttle Tube tube shortens the rotation down to 70 degrees, or 15% KWICKer. You can go from full closed to WFO without repositioning your hand. It’s not so quick that it’s not controllable….like Goldilocks said, “…it’s just right…”
Also, fits ZX10R and R1!
This setup is an ELS Exclusive!
To install the KWICK Throttle you will need a normal assortment of tools, the ones in your underseat tool kit will do fine, a Dremel tool with a sanding drum, a small jeweler’s file, a X-Acto or pocket knife, a propane torch and a silver Sharpie marker.
First, remove the fuel tank, or scoot it back and sit it on top of the front mounts. You will need to get access to the cable adjusters and slacken them all the way
Next, remove the two screws on the throttle housing, separate and remove the stock tube & cables. If you are running the stock bar-end weights, you will need to slide the throttle tube full to the left, then heat the end of the bar with a propane torch till it’s good and hot, then remove the LocTited #3 Phillips head screw. Without heat, you’ll never get it loose
You will need to cut off 1/4” from the plastic elbow on the “pull” cable. You can do this with a diagonal plier, hacksaw or a Dremel cutting wheel. Loosen the adjuster to full-slack.
Next, remove the small Phillips head screw holding the cable routing guide into the front of the switch housing. Remove the guide, paying attention to how the end locks into the switch housing; you’ll need to install it the same way later.
Next, take your silver Sharpie and draw two lines on the edges as shown. These will be your sanding guides.
Install the sandpaper drum on the Dremel as shown so the
center screw is not sticking out the end. Sand the curved portion carefully until the line closest in the picture is gone and about the same width is exposed on the farther line. Deburr with an X-Acto or pocket knife.
Next, put a Sharpie mark at the end of the cable slot as shown, then take a small round jeweler’s file and file the mark away to make the slot longer. Again, debur with X-Acto or pocket knife.
Clean everything thoroughly, check for burrs, reassemble using light grease on cables through the guide slot and on both sides of the throttle cam where it rotates inside the switch housing. Also grease the cable ends and check for fraying. No lubricant is needed on the tube/handlerbar, the Delrin is self-lubricating. When buttoned up, check throttle freeplay and adjust as needed. I used to always like zero freeplay, but I find lately that I have better control with just a smidgen of looseness. The throttle should “SNAP” back shut. If it doesn’t, double check your work.
If you have ANY questions about installation, PLEASE call me! If you are not a decent wrench, find someone to help you thru the install. It’s an easy job, but a mess-up could be dangerous. Again, any questions, please call.
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