Over Five years I have been trying to create these bar end mirrors that are loose copies of a custom aluminum Harley mirror.
I tried molding them in various styles of media.
I tried 3D Scanning them.
Tried to create a CNC mold to injection mold them.
Jared and I finally came up with the 3D Print…we worked on them for over a year to make them work and be adjustable far enough in and out to work with ALL handlebars.
Then over the years I made way over 150 3D Prints and was never happy with the outcome.
3D Printing cannot be done in thin air without supports, and every print I tried was the same 3-4 hours of removing the support material and then there were still issues.
Finally I went to Shapways in New York and they have a $300,000 plus Hewlett Packard Sintered Plastic printer in The Netherlands and they looked WONDERFUL…until you see how much the pair of prints cost. Selling them at basically cost plus a pizza for $275.00 did not cut it.
I’ve been messing with PETG filament and the results have been great. I’ve switched over for everything except the Carbon Fiber parts.
I’ve done a lot of tweaking on the 3D Printer lately and have it working better and better.
So, I asked Jared after we created my Mini Mill LED light and put self generated support material in the print rather than depending on the program to do it.
He thought for a couple days and found a way around it;
I printed it, we made a few tweaks and now it takes a reasonable amount of time to remove the supports rather than three hours.
Then, PETG will not accept paint…well, I’ve been known to go into different Genres and find ways to do things no one else has (insert EVIL laugh).
So, I can paint them in Kool colors also, inquire.
Gloss Black is the standard color.
Anyway, I can now sell them at a competitive price. They have a “pattern” on them that looks quite good.
They come with two Allen wrenches to adjust them. Most guys set their mirrors once and , unless they are bumped hard, that is it. If your load varies, you can adjust them up/down a bit without an Allen. These mirrors are not much wider than the stock bar end weights.
The mirror glass is convex “Right Hand Mirror” car mirror glass cut on a waterjet to shape. The mirror cut is damn good now.
I will supply bar end machined aluminum plugs w/M6 thread and a tube of Loctite 609 to anchor them in your bars. Be sure to put in the text box your bar inner diameter(s) and color preference.
Stock handlebars I have a really ingenious setup for, instructions are below.
$75.00/pair plus shipping. Please call me with any questions 🙂
Allow up to two weeks till shipment. They take 25+ hours to print a set, plus assembly time.
Stock Bar Mount Instructions :
•Insert M5 x M10 washer in outboard end of mirror
•Insert M5 x 80mm Allen capscrew into outboard end of mirror.
•Use tube of included 609 LocTite on M8 adapter and screw into bar end with a 1/4” screwdriver to be flush with the bar end.
•Let dry in sun, heat with hairdryer or let sit for several hours to “set” the LocTite.
•Two starwashers are included. Use either, or both, as needed.
•Tighten snugly, but so you can still adjust mirror up/down as needed
•Hole with plastic Phillips heat screw is the mirror pivot and deos not need to be touched.
•Small hole has a M4 setscrew with a 2mm allen wrench included. Loosen a few turns, adjust mirror in/out.
•Tighten setscrew enough so you cannot adjust it and it does not rattle.
•These are 3D Printed PETG Plastic mirror housings, they are not delicate, but please use common sense with the Allen screw tightnesses.
•To remove the adapter at a later date, the end of the bar will need to be heated with a propane torch to 450º F to soften the Loctite.
•Please call with any questions 602-397-4869
WARNING: ELS Products MAY CONTAIN, or be Made With, Patented Parts, Tools, Components and/or Apparati. Manufacturing Facility DOES Contain Nuts.